The North Remembers (And So Do I)

I heart Northern Ireland.

I mean, I love the entire island; but the raw beauty of the Antrim coast and the emotions bubbling in Belfast made it an excellent two days.

On Friday, November 6 we were up and out bright and early. Thirty five of us, including staff, were on our way to Belfast, Northern Ireland for Black Taxi Tours. Along the way, our residential director pointed out his hometown of Dundalk in County Louth, Ireland—a border town between the Republic and the north. Like many other border towns during the political strife of the sixties and seventies, Dundalk was heavily associated with being almost a safe haven for people to escape to after having been involved in some act of violence. The switch between countries is noted with a change in road line colors—yellow to white—and a sign, as if you were crossing between states.

Belfast wasn’t much further, and at half past eleven groups of five were being loaded into—yes—black taxis, the ones we’ve all seen in movies set in the United Kingdom, and taken around the city. Our first stop was to a low-income neighborhood, colored by murals of members of Northern Irishmen killed as a result of tensions during the Troubles. Painted over existing works, these were agreed upon by the community, and enacted in remembrance. In this small space, we passed about six murals, all surrounded by flowers and wreaths.

The stop after that was to the Peace Wall—a mutual decision between Catholic and Protestant communities. Our guides informed us that these walls have only grown with time, and that even today it is uncommon for a Catholic to head to this side of the city. What I’d never realized before coming was that this city, unfortunately at the heart of so much turbulence, continues to be segregated and, at the moment, happier for it.

We then visited a mural honoring Bobby Sands and several others who partook in hunger strikes while imprisoned, and an International Wall calling to end the stronghold. What I had expected going in was not the reality of the tour, but it was—in a bizarre way—better that way.

A mural painted in a lower-income neighborhood and the International Wall

There was a span of two hours that allowed us to wander, and a small group of us headed for City Hall. A Happy Christmas Belfast sign hung over the entrance, and lights were being strung up in the windows and around the trees. We were able to look around inside for a bit, and then after a brief bout of misdirection and getting lost, found our way back to the bus (albeit a few minutes late).

Belfast City Hall. Twenty minutes later, the lights had been turned on and the holiday season was a-kickin'!

The Titanic Belfast Experience Museum, built where the ship itself was built, was our afternoon adventure. I was eager to head inside, and the time allotted was just the time I needed. Interactive and informative, the museum incorporated technology and what would have been similar items found on board as rooms and dishware. I began to rush towards the end of the exhibition when I lost sight of other students, but found my friend Dylan and spent a little time outside. I was afraid that I would have to rush through more than I did, so I am satisfied with what was seen.

Snippets from the Titanic Belfast Experience

 A quick detour to the Dark Hedges (a filming location for Game of Thrones) brought us to our hostel in Ballintoy. There, we were served dinner and dessert in a function hall complete with piano, pool table, and ping pong table. Everyone hung around there for a couple of hours, fooling around and taking breaks to chat. It passed the time before going down the street to a pub for a pint and karaoke, where we all got up and sang at one point or another with the local musician. The night ended with a rendition of “American Pie”, then “Happy Birthday” for one of the students with us.

The Dark Hedges

 We were up early the next morning, grabbing breakfast before taking a morning stroll down to Ballintoy Harbor, a quaint viewing point AND filming location for the Iron Islands. No fierce Greyjoys around that morning, unfortunately. Or fortunately, I suppose.

The harbor used for filming the Iron Islands. It doesn't look like much now, but were a fleet of ships to arrive you'd know it!

Returning to the hostel late, everyone loaded up and headed onto the bus for a day along the Antrim coast. Our first stop was to the Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge, suspended over crystal water and along a string of wild greenery. On the other side was a slippery viewpoint, and after returning over the bridge took a scenic walk back to the bus. A pit stop at a viewpoint above the rope bridge next brought us to lunch at the Smuggler’s Inn. There, the sun fully made its appearance and kept us warm as it filtered through the bay windows.

It just doesn't get much better.

The Giant’s Causeway and Dunluce Castle were our afternoon adventures. The Causeway is the result of a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago, made up of column-esque rock formations at the water’s edge. I was overwhelmed by this vision of Ireland and its beautiful ruggedness before me. Living in Dublin (it’s still so crazy to say that!), there’s very few places to find natural recluse. And in the city, it is nearly impossible to find this sort of scenery. I was left feeling small among things that are much grander than myself.

The Giant's Causeway: A giant beauty

The wind swept in forcefully as our time there drew to a close, but the sun returned as we set off for Dunluce Castle. Built on a cliff’s edge, with a missing (kitchen having fallen to its demise), what remains of Dunluce is ruins and the many fireplaces that were obviously necessary for those chilly nights. I climbed up on one of the little walls overlooking the sea, really wishing I could retire right then and there and move over. It’s a fixer-upper, but I’d be happy to oversee it.

There is a castle on a... cliff...

The cherry on top was a slide down into a mermaid’s cove. Yes, a slide: steep and slick, I was crouched well into myself and took extra care to note where my feet were located and where they needed to be next. Five minutes later, I was at the bottom, mystified by the waves lapping at the shore and the film noir colors that filled in around me. My hands and shoes were caked with mud, and I was caked in triumph (apologies for how corny that comes across).

The view from below!

Northern Ireland has certainly topped as one of my favorite places traveled to this semester. And having the chance to visit with a big bunch of sunshine—the wonderful students I’ve known for only four months—made it all the better.

Through and through, this is the quality scenery I like to see. For myself, especially.

“It is my favorite thing, I think, that I have ever seen. Sometimes I catch myself staring at it and forget my duties. It seems big enough to contain everything anyone could ever feel.” – Anthony Doerr