Three words: I’m finally dry.
This past weekend, a class trip to the west of Ireland, met
us with breaking-news rain and floods, sick-inducing boat rides, and lots of
rugged Irish countryside.
On Friday morning, forty six students and staff loaded a
coach bus set for a journey to the west of the country. (Can you believe it?!
We could cross the entire country in three hours!) It was a sunny morning in
Dublin, the day breaking over the River Liffey, as we were told of the weather
to be. Rain in the west, and apparently lots of it. Within the hour, light
drops drizzled over the front windows and gradually turned into what would be a
monsoon.
Friday was a day of travel: we first stopped at an abbey,
told by our program director that the Irish are more laid back when it comes to
stepping on graves. Nonetheless, I scurried off one as soon as I realized what
it was.
From there, we looped our way through the Burren, from the
Irish Boireann, or
"great rock". On either side are rolling hills of rocky terrain that
criss-crosses and as a result has formed cracks in the limestone. We had one
stop in the Burren, at an ancient dolmen (burial tomb). A small valley had
formed just past the dolmen, indicating the existence of a glacier at some
point.
For that
matter, every body of water in Doolin was raging that night. Changing my
clothes had been futile; five minutes into our walk and we were all sopping.
Through the blur of night and the hood concealing my view, I tried to absorb
the beauty of the Ireland of everyone’s dreams. Dirt roads encased in stone
walls; small houses on either side, dimly lit from the light of a restaurant
nearby. Rushing water, and what we knew to be fairytale green grasses.
“I know not all that may be coming, but be it what it will, I'll go to it laughing.” - Herman Melville
Our
second to last stop was in Lisdoonvarna, a small village ten minutes from the
Cliffs of Moher that hosts a matchmaking festival, which we were lucky to see.
No, I didn’t meet my match; but a few of us stepped into a couple of pegged
dancing locations to find halls filled with elders cozied up together,
shuffling along the floor. The last half hour of our stop was spent in the back
corner of a pub quiet with the late afternoon, some nursing drinks of Guinness
or tea. Then, we jumped back in the bus and were on our way to what would be
the talk of the country.
The rain
picked up speed as we, too, sped along towards the towering Cliffs of Moher;
and once the bus was parked, I glanced out the window and laughed out a groan. Here
we go, guys.
The
program director gave us a brief lowdown on where we would find the toilets and
the visitor center—built into the side of a hill across from the cliffs—and
said he would see us back there in an hour and fifteen minutes. As we all
stepped out, lifting our hoods, we received a souvenir ticket and were sent on
our way. Most of us made a beeline for the restroom. On our way up the inclined
gravel path to the railing, we passed other students who had checked out the
misty view and were quickly becoming soaked. A few of us traipsed up the path
towards a small castle balanced on the edge of a past life; and as soon as we
were there, our pants were cold and damp and clung to us, and the sleeves of my
sweater, peeking out from beneath my rain coat (which did not keep my back or
shoulders safe) hung heavily at my wrists. But we carried on, and crossed to
the other side, towards a pathway that stopped us in our tracks at its being
deemed dangerous. At that point, dripping from head to calf—my feet were the
only things that stayed dry—we hustled into the visitor center and proceeded
cautiously to ring out our coats and shake the droplets of water from our hair.
After
settling in at our accommodation for the night in Doolin, a small town in
County Clare, and changing into warmer clothes, we made our way to dinner at
one of Doolin’s four pubs. “Twenty houses and four pubs”, we were told. My
every fiber was warmed with the Irish stew, followed by a slice of white
chocolate and raspberry cheesecake. Four of us, craving a session of
traditional music, followed the advice of our head resident and headed to the
pub closest to our hostel, set on a rounded street opposite the raging ocean.
But in
this world, the dirt ran slick with mud; the houses provided a warmth that we
couldn’t experience just yet; the rivers were flooding and racing below us.
Fairytale green grasses remained, though.
Towards
the end of our walk, we had to cross a dip in the road which was filling
rapidly with rainwater. My feet had succumbed to the cruel water, and the four
of us sloshed through, splashing like kids and not feeling anything anymore.
Nothing was left to be wet.
We
arrived at the pub, the only soaked ones in the place, and tried to find a
place to sit under the scrutiny of everyone. I kid you not when I say everyone in
the place was looking at us as we passed. And most everyone asked in a joking
manner, “It raining out?”
We
squished into a corner of the pub, near the bathroom, where I ran to ring out
the socks squelching in my boots and to wipe the mascara that was running
across my cheek. My boots were teeming with water life, and continued to squish
with it for the rest of the night. But the lovely company and the trad session
gave no sense in even dwelling on it.
Pub life
is the way to live, I think. People gather from anywhere and everywhere to sit
with a drink and friends or family, to let time pass slowly and to savor each
second. Then the musicians take their place—and at this pub, they have a table
reserved for them—with a beer in tow, and begin to play. It starts out quietly,
as the place is teeming with chatter, but grows louder as the conversation dims
and the music’s presence is hard to ignore. It is one piece of the soul of
Ireland that I have grown rather attached to in the short time that I’ve been
here. The small problems with being a wet dog and tired from a day’s travels
disappear, and all that remains is the music, the social drink, the company,
and the present.
The
status of being wet was really crappy, but the circumstances more than made it
worth it.
“I know not all that may be coming, but be it what it will, I'll go to it laughing.” - Herman Melville
Just a taste of the rainbow after the rain |
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